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Popular Articles

Quick, Easy & Cheap Headlight Restoration

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    Safety

    Safety First

    by Josh Bensadon February 9, 2022
    written by Josh Bensadon

    Forward.

    I am the proud 3rd owner of a 1999 Bounder 36S V10 Triton with Tag Axle.  My posts here are for entertainment purposes only.  I will not be liable for any of your actions, do not try this yourself.

    Mechanics and Doctors share (at least) one rule.  Above all, do no harm (to yourself or others).  Even if you are experienced, it will not hurt you to take a look at safety tips.  Please read these.

    Safety.

    When ever I work on equipment, I take a moment and think of the possibilities of my action(s) and take some necessary precautions to keep myself safe.  Here’s a list of things to think of.

    Zone of Danger. – When ever using a tool, keep in mind the function of that tool.  It might be a hammer, wrench, torch, etc.  It’s function is to perform something that muscles and hands cannot.  eg. Impact force, leverage force, heat, etc.  Look at where that force is being applied and keep all hands (and body) away from anywhere the force can reach.  Eg, don’t poke at something being held in the palm of a hand, or put a hand behind a place where a tool may slip/miss and cause injury.  Always think of what would happen if that wrench slips… use gloves, change position or add cloths/safety guards to the area.

    Personal Protection Equipment – PPE.  Always wear appropriate protection.  Sometimes Safety Glasses are not enough, you need the full sealed protection of Eye Goggles.  Use Ear protection if the work/environment is too loud.  Gloves are helpful in many ways and types.  eg. latex gloves will protect the skin from carcinogenic chemicals (like motor oil).  Heat gloves will protect the skin from burning hot metals or weld splash.  Steel toe work boots are a good idea, they often include soft rubber treads to grip the ground better.  Other PPE include face shields, fall arrest harnesses, high-visibility (reflective) clothing, hard hats, muscle support (like back belts).

    Hand Tools – Discussed in Zone of Danger.

    Power Tools – These also have a Zone of Danger, usually a larger Zone! Plus other dangers like kickback, power cords, etc.  They can easily cause much more severe injuries.  It is always best to only use these when there is ample room to keep safe distance.  Always be sure to have a good firm grip and a solid balance.  Spread your feet apart for solid stance or lean against something that will give sturdy support but not place any part of the body in the zone of danger.  Never wear loose clothing or jewelry that can be caught by the power tool.  Tie long hair back.  Keep the power cord in mind.  Always be well rested when using these tools to achieve your best strength and clear thinking of safety.  Use the correct PPE (always use safety glasses/goggles)

    Table Saw – A very dangerous power tool.  I always count my fingers before and after!  It is important to stand in the right place in case the blade launches a projectile at you.  Wear a heavy apron as armor.  Spread your feet for stance.  Never bring hands close to blade, use scrap pieces of wood to move the piece through.  Eye protection always, hearing protection as required.

    Wood Working – Splinters are not fun.  Wear gloves!

    Mechanical disassembly – Take caution when removing any bolt or screw on a heavy part or any hose (water, hydraulic, etc).  Check how heavy that part is by loosening the bolts and then moving the part.  In fact, it’s helpful to hold the weight of the part before removing the final bolt(s).  This lets the bolt turn easily by hand and protects the part from damage or damaging other parts.  But more importantly, it prevents trapping or injuring a hand or body part.  If a part is too heavy, then additional equipment/tools (crane?) is required.  Check if a hose has pressure by moving it around, squeezing it, etc.  Relieve the pressure before removing clamps.  Have a spotter or a way to call for help if you do get trapped.  It is also very helpful to remove bolts/screws slowly to not let them drop, also, remove washers and nuts without dropping them.  Have a magnet stick handy incase it’s needed.  Put a cloth down below the part to catch any bolts or other pieces.

    Mechanical Assembly – Always torque bolts/nuts (typically dry).  Never over tighten.  In fact, I somewhere heard the torque can be within 10% of correct / ideal, but that it’s more important that all bolts are torqued equally for a uniform attachment.  Never overtighten a bolt.  Metal bolts stretch (not noticeable by the naked eye), they have an “Elastic Region” in this stretch.  The proper torque puts the bolt in the middle of this stretch, over tightened and it’s like an elastic band… ready to SNAP!  This is why equal / uniform torque is required.

    Jacking a Vehicle – Never go under a vehicle that is only lifted by a jack.  Always use the correct jack and jack stands before going under a vehicle.  Test the vehicle on the jack stands.  Use Parking brakes or chock tires when appropriate.  Always have someone spotting or a way to call for help.  Look for additional help/tips online, there is an excellent 11 minute YouTube video on “Where to place jack stands”.  Be aware of any cheap Jack Stands (Google Harbor Freight Jack Stand Recall)

    Electrical Work – Disconnect power before working on wiring.  Test that power is disconnected using a volt meter, don’t simply trust the wireless detectors (for high voltage AC).  When disconnecting a battery, always disconnect the negative lead first (assuming the metal frame is negative), then the positive.  When re-connecting, use the reverse order (connect negative last).  Purpose is to minimize the chance of a wrench shorting the positive lead to the frame.  High currents on a battery can cause batteries to explode.  Whenever adding electrical devices/wiring, always use the correct gauge of wire and use a (carefully selected) fuse to protect the wire correctly.  On a side note, use caution when touching an EV car/vehicle that has been damaged in a collision (wiring can make the chassis live with hundreds of volts).

    Soldering, Welding, Burns – Parts remain very hot for a long time.  Use PPE and keep in mind the part may still be hot.  Some screws can be hot enough to burn after they are removed by a power tool.

    Fuels – Gasoline and Propane are dangerous.  There are ways to test for leaks, this should always be done after working on these systems.  Further, these systems should always inspected regularly basis appropriate to their age.  If there’s doubt, replace it.

    Ladders and working at heights – Know how to properly use a ladder and take care when working at heights.  Gravity is not your friend.

    Vehicle Tires – These can dangerously explode (and cause serious injury) if overfilled with air.

     

    February 9, 2022 0 comments
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  • ElectricalExterior

    Brake light switch fixed!!

    by Laurie Z December 29, 2021
    by Laurie Z December 29, 2021

    Hi All, I have been dealing with an issue for quite some time, off and on. Finally, today I think it’s fixed for good …

    Read more
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  • Interior

    Our 1996 34J Story

    by Jonathan Mikolajczyk July 30, 2021
    by Jonathan Mikolajczyk July 30, 2021

    Our Bounder story started in Mid July 2021. We set out to purchase a motorhome that met our families needs, was relatively solid and …

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  • Electrical

    Danger: Don’t Automatically Trust Your Extension Cords

    by Jon Glazer July 7, 2021
    by Jon Glazer July 7, 2021

    When I purchased my rig it came with a 30 amp extension cord.  I thought “cool, that saves some money!”  Well I was wrong.  …

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  • ElectricalF.A.Q.s

    Answered: How do I Turn this On or Off?

    by Jon Glazer July 7, 2021
    by Jon Glazer July 7, 2021

    On the outside of most rigs above the wet-bay is usually found a “utility light”.  This is handy for hooking up at a campground …

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    1 FacebookTwitterPinterestEmail
  • Exterior

    Replacing/Restoring your Headlights

    by Jon Glazer July 6, 2021
    by Jon Glazer July 6, 2021

    The headlight lenses in any non-sealed solution usually gets “foggy” over time and not only cuts down on their effectiveness but also look bad. …

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    3 FacebookTwitterPinterestEmail
  • Tires

    Danger!: Adding Valve Extensions to Tires

    by Jon Glazer July 4, 2021
    by Jon Glazer July 4, 2021

    Prior to heading out on a recent vacation which required about a five hour drive, I purchased all new tires from a local dealer …

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    1 FacebookTwitterPinterestEmail
  • Flooring

    Renovation: New flooring

    by Jon Glazer June 25, 2021
    by Jon Glazer June 25, 2021

    We purchased your 2003 35R in August 2020.  It has only 25k miles on it but it was still 17 years old.  It spent …

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